8 Days in Croatia: Seaside Ferries, Walled Cities, and Adriatic Charm

One of my favorite parts of travel—especially as a travel advisor—is when a trip doesn’t go exactly to plan… and turns out even better for it. That’s exactly how our week in Croatia unfolded. From ferry switches to hidden vineyards, this was a journey stitched together by small surprises, sea breezes, and a whole lot of local flavor.

If you’ve ever dreamed of island hopping along the Dalmatian Coast, here’s how we spent eight days moving from Split to Dubrovnik—by way of Hvar, Korčula, and a few unexpected detours that made the trip even more memorable.

Day 1: Arrival in Split + Wandering Diocletian’s Walls

After landing in Split, we caught the shuttle into the city—a quick, inexpensive ride that drops you within walking distance of the historic core. It’s one of the easiest airport transfers in Croatia and a great way to get your bearings right away. Our host Tea, at Riva Apartment, met us with a warm welcome and a few local tips—always a perk of staying with someone who knows the neighborhood.

We dove straight into Diocletian’s Palace, where you can wander 1,700-year-old Roman walls still alive with cafés, shops, and street performers. For Game of Thrones fans, the palace’s basements double as the dragon keep—and yes, it’s very cool in person. We also made a stop at Grgur Ninski’s statue to rub his giant bronze toe, a quirky but beloved good-luck ritual.

As the sky faded to gold, we found our way to Farbique, a tucked-away cocktail bar with intimate lighting, modern drinks, and a break from the busy Riva. Perfect for your first night—relaxed, low-key, and delicious.

💡 Pro Tip: Staying near the Riva makes everything walkable, but try to avoid restaurants right on the water—just a street or two inland, you’ll find better food and more local prices.

Day 2: Fortress Views, Hidden Hermitages & a Riva Sunset

We started the day with a visit to Klis Fortress, perched high above Split with sweeping views of the coastline. It’s just a short ride from the city—easily reached by taxi or local bus—and well worth the effort. While many people recognize it as Meereen from Game of Thrones, its real-life history and dramatic setting are just as captivating.

After returning to the city, we made our way up Marjan Hill, a pine-covered ridge that’s home to medieval hermitages, scenic overlooks, and walking trails that feel a world away from the busy Riva. We grabbed coffee from a quiet café near the lookout and spent the afternoon taking in the views over the rooftops and harbor below.

Later that evening, we stopped at Hemingway Bar (sadly, it's no longer open) for a spritz and sunset glow before settling in at Olive Tree on the waterfront. With fresh seafood, patio seating, and a cool breeze off the sea, it was one of those evenings that makes you slow down and soak it in.

💡 Pro Tip: You don’t need a car to reach Split’s best views—taxis and local buses work great, and Marjan Hill is a walkable escape just minutes from the old town.

Day 3: Ferry Changes & Harborfront Living in Hvar

Our original ferry to Hvar Town was canceled due to wind—a common reality when island hopping in Croatia. Luckily, we caught the Jadrolinija car ferry into Stari Grad, the island’s quieter port town. Onboard, we met a friendly local driver who offered us a ride to Hvar Town. Unexpected moments like this are what make island travel fun if you stay flexible.

After checking into our harbor front apartment, we made a quick stop at Tommy’s Grocery for basics (and a bottle of local wine), then wandered through the polished streets of Hvar’s old town. Though it’s known for glitz and nightlife, there’s plenty of charm during the day—stone alleys, scent of lavender in the air, and sailboats lining the promenade.

💡 Pro Tip: Even during the shoulder season, ferry tickets can sell out. Book early—especially for catamarans—and always have a backup plan via car ferry or water taxi.

Day 4: Cliffside Trails, Shore Fishing & Harbor Dining

We spent the morning hiking one of the coastal trails that begin just outside Hvar Town. These trails hug the coastline and offer secluded views and occasional beach access—ideal if you want a scenic walk without renting a car or scooter.

Midday, we stumbled onto Mustaco, a tiny, no-frills seafood spot that felt like a secret. Fresh catch, plastic chairs, and a million-dollar view—it doesn’t take much to feel spoiled here.

Later, Mike tried shore fishing while I laid out on the rocks nearby. It was simple, peaceful, and a perfect way to soak in the day. That night, we had dinner at Kod Kapetana, a harborfront staple that gets it right—no trend-chasing, just quality seafood, solid local wine, and genuinely kind service.

💡 Pro Tip: Bring water shoes if you plan to explore the rocky beaches near town—they’ll make a world of difference.

Day 5: Garden Stays & Rooftop Cocktails in Korčula

The catamaran to Korčula made for a beautiful morning ride across a calm sea. At the dock, our host Mara from The Flower House had a driver waiting—a small but appreciated gesture after a travel day. Her B&B was bursting with character: citrus trees, garden roses, and a cozy apartment just a short walk from Old Town.

Once settled, we wandered into town, took the classic photo in front of Veliki Revelin Tower, and climbed to Vela Spila Cave—an archaeological site with incredible views over the bay.

That evening, we snagged a table at Massimo Cocktail Bar, which sits inside a medieval turret. It’s part thrill, part chill—expect to climb a ladder and sip your drink with a 360° view. For dinner, we followed Mara’s recommendation and headed to Konoba Maslina, where the pasticada was rich, tender, and easily one of the best things we ate all trip.

💡 Pro Tip: Stay just outside Korčula’s walls for better value and garden-style stays—and don’t skip the rooftop bars.

Day 6: Wine, Wanderings & Warm Hospitality in Lumbarda

We started with fresh-squeezed orange juice from Mara and a stop at Cukarin Korčula, a sweet little bakery where you can stock up on local almond cookies and fig pastries. Then we caught the water taxi to Lumbarda, a sleepy coastal town where sandy vineyards stretch toward the sea.

Wandering without a plan, we stumbled upon Popić Winery. Though it wasn’t officially open, an employee welcomed us in and gave us a full tasting and snack pairing—a mix of wines, cheeses, and olives that felt personal, unrushed, and deeply memorable.

After a light lunch at Maestral Café, we took the boat back and ended the evening with pizza at Pizzaria Doris—laid-back, local, and just what we needed.

💡 Pro Tip: In Lumbarda, show up early or message wineries in advance—even casual spots appreciate a heads-up, especially outside peak hours. WhatsApp id a great way to communicate all over Europe

Day 7: Dubrovnik Walls & Sunset at Buža

Our final ferry delivered us to Dubrovnik, where we stayed in a B&B walkable from the port (though you’ll want rolling luggage—it’s uphill). After dropping our bags, we headed into the walled city and walked the Old City Walls, which offer unbeatable views over rooftops, sea, and nearby islands.

We grabbed lunch at Segreto Pasta & Grill, then spent the afternoon meandering through hidden alleys and revisiting Game of Thrones filming sites. Eventually, we ended up at Buža Bar, a literal hole-in-the-wall bar clinging to the cliffs. With no music, no frills, and views straight out to sea, it’s a magical spot for a late afternoon drink and sunset.

💡 Pro Tip: Bring cash to Buža—cards aren’t accepted and there’s no table service, but the view is priceless.

Day 8: A Morning at Sea + One Last Toast

With our flight later in the day, we rented a boat with Gari Transfer and spent the morning island hopping. Stops at Lopud, Orasac, and Lokrum gave us quiet beaches, turquoise water, and a peaceful send off after a packed week.

Back on land, we cleaned up and headed to Restaurant Pjerin, a refined, scenic spot perfect for a farewell lunch. Tucked into the grounds of Villa Dubrovnik, it was the kind of meal that invites you to linger—thoughtfully plated dishes, attentive service, and a view that stretches right across the Adriatic.

After lunch, we grabbed an Uber to Dubrovnik Airport, still a little salty and sun-warmed, with a suitcase full of laundry and a head full of new favorite places.

💡 Pro Tip: Booking a half-day boat rental on your departure day is a great way to extend your trip—but pack a small day bag with dry clothes, sunscreen, and anything you’ll need to freshen up before the airport.

Why This Trip Worked (and How Yours Can, Too)

Croatia’s ferry system makes island hopping easy, but it’s the moments in between that made this trip unforgettable. Friendly hosts, flexible timing, off-the-map stops—this wasn’t a checklist trip. It was a thoughtfully paced itinerary with space for connection, comfort, and spontaneity.

Whether you're chasing sunsets, seafood, or just a smoother travel experience, I’d love to help.

✨ Let’s build your version of a Croatia island adventure—with ferry logistics, waterfront stays, and all the best detours already mapped out.

P.S. About the Cats…

If you’re a cat lover, Croatia might just steal your heart in an unexpected way. Nearly every town we visited had its own crew of stray-but-charmed cats—lounging on stone steps, napping in sunbeams, or quietly supervising the harbor. Locals often leave out food and water, and many of these feline wanderers are surprisingly friendly. I didn’t plan on Croatia being a cat-spotting destination… but now I can’t imagine it without them. 🐾